Shari's Trip to Borneo
When I decided Borneo was my next adventure, I chose to travel on a small group trip as I was looking forward to travelling with others in a destination so remote. Having a local guide and only 10-12 people in the group is one of my favourite ways to explore a new destination because it gives you the opportunity for some really authentic experiences without overwhelming the locals! The mix of different cultures within the group always brings a really unique dynamic to vacationing. You meet new friends and see from new perspectives.
Local Guides
Local guides make such a big difference to the experience when you travel. They bring knowledge and context to your trip, along with all the best authentic dining options and off-the-beaten-path spots to visit!
Our local guide Beverly didn't disappoint. She had many years of guiding experience and it showed. From her attention to detail to her anticipation of the group's needs to her keen eye for spotting wildlife, she was the authentic secret ingredient to our trip. She was quick to set expectations though that we may or may not see orangutans in the wild due to low numbers and wildlife being, well ... wild.
She also clearly wanted us to see all that Borneo had to offer and was quick to tell us in a soft but wise way, "Borneo is more than just orangutans, you know.' It was a strong reminder that destinations are more than just their famous highlight! The landscapes, the people, the food and all of the other animals make up the destination ... it's not just the orangutans.
Two Sides to Every Story
Just like everyone else, I remember seeing the news about clear-cutting, habitat loss, orangutans losing their homes and often their lives. Although it was years ago now this was one of my main reasons for wanting to go to Borneo, to see the orangutans before they become extinct. Learning about their plight and the current situation while in destination was perspective-changing though!
We learned about both sides of the palm oil debate. First, how the clear-cutting destroyed habitat endangering and killing animals. Most prominently featured were orangutans, but habitat loss affects birds, insects, reptiles, sun bears and other monkeys.
We then learned how laws have been put in place to stop clear-cutting in the past few years, education has been implemented to help people understand the importance of the land and animals. Sustainability processes are also being implemented for palm oil production, although I think the methods of tracking and inspection are under scrutiny. Although these things can't undo the damage from the massive clear-cutting years ago, at least it is not continuing and the importance of land and animals has been recognized as important.
I think most importantly I was reminded there are two sides to every story. While the world was heartbroken with the horrifying news and images of habitat loss and displaced or killed orangutans (and other animals), there's another side to the industry where it provides much-needed income to local communities and farmers. Without that income, they don't have the means to support themselves and their families.
There is no one right side. We discussed how sometimes people boycott products with palm oil to 'save orangutans', but if done en masse that can also hurt locals who depend on the palm oil industry to survive. Should saving orangutans be more important than locals feeding their families? Locals and industry professionals boycotted Nestle for some time for their participation in using palm oil but not giving back to conservation. The protest worked and now Nestle has projects in place to hire locals to plant native seedlings which will then be used to reforest areas. It supports locals and helps the environment. Does it absolve Nestle from the harm they've done? Not really, but it is a form of progress. There can be benefits to both sides out of a seemingly negative situation, although we still have a long way to go.
It was a great life lesson on balance and a reminder that there are two sides to every story. Destroying habitat carelessly for corporate greed is obviously bad, but removing that income source entirely from local people who depend on it is also bad. The trick is to find the balance in the middle where the earth is not being damaged and people can thrive.
Let's Be Better Travellers
One of the most powerful ways to have a positive impact is through tourism, but it can also be incredibly harmful if not done carefully. Tourism has the power to give communities other forms of income so they don't rely on the production of palm oil, in turn, reducing the amount of land needed and number of trees cut. Irresponsible or uneducated tourists who litter or try to get close to the orangutans (or other animals) spread diseases that the animals aren't able to fight off. Big tour companies that take over communities with hoardes of tourists and lack of respect for the locals in their homes and daily lives leave locals with a negative feeling about tourism. We don't want that! We can do better!
On the flip side, if you were to avoid visiting Borneo because you were angry about the clear-cutting or the prominent use of palm oil you'd also remove your much-needed tourism dollars from the economy. In the end, not only does this hurt locals, it also means less funds for conservation projects to save the orangutans, the pygmy elephants and the sun bears that we go to see!
How incredible would it be to use your tourism dollars to support locals, help them thrive in different industries and become less dependent on the palm oil industry?
Giving Back by Travelling
"Borneo is more than just orangutans, you know ...."
On this trip alone, just by choosing to explore Borneo, we supported a local social enterprise in a small community that is bringing back coffee growing / production and involving local community members in various ways. We visited Everything Pineapple, a project for women growing pineapples and making jellies and chutneys in an off-the-beaten track area called Kampung Kiau that doesn't see many tourists.
We had a meal with a local family in one spot and enjoyed a local food market where we were the only tourists in another. Both of these were supportive of the community and authentic experiences for us as travellers. We also supported conservation by visiting Gomantong Caves, Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. It's not only your money that is important when it comes to conservation; it's important to be more educated about these great places and animals. Education and action support conservation efforts as well.
Pygmy Elephants
My trip was with one of our favourite B Corp Certified companies, Intrepid Travel. Their foundation - the Intrepid Foundation - has a project focused on saving habitats for Pygmy Elephants that are now fewer than 1500 in the wild. We were lucky enough to see them alongside the river on our first day in Kinabatangan River! How special is it to see something rare and unexpected! Orangutans are not the only ones affected by habitat loss to the palm oil and clear-cutting issues. These sweet little ellies are struggling to exist and I'm so grateful to have gotten to see them.
Orangutans
I didn't know orangutans were solitary and you only see them together in the wild as mom and baby. Otherwise, they are usually alone (except to mate). In the end, we did see orangutans in the wild. (AWWW! Look how cute that baby is!) It was quite by chance while we were walking through the jungle on our way back from Gomantong Caves. It was magical to see them at home, relaxed, in their own space. We were just there visiting for a few beautiful moments.
We also got to see them at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehibiltation Centre Here the sick and injured are cared for in the nursery and then released into the jungle of the sanctuary where they can live on their own. We watched feeding time at the nursery from behind glass - we were the ones enclosed, where the orangutans were free to roam! And then we went to a second feeding where monkeys and orangutans who are living wild can come for food if they need it.
Tourism is a Force for Good
Every time I travel with Intrepid I'm powerfully reminded of the importance of tourism to do good in this big, beautiful world of ours. If you are inspired to be a better traveller and would like to work with us to find the perfect trip that's doing good for the world, please email us or set up a consultation.
Oh. This trip sounds amazing. I’d love to go
You let me know when you are ready and we’ll get you there! High Season is May – October when there is little rain, but it’s really hot! Lower season from November – April is great too, but more chance of rain and storms. I went in June, but I would suggest April or May would be a good time in a bit of shoulder season.
Wow Shari, this is an excellent summary of our trip. I couldn’t have said it better. I would love to share this!
Oh thanks, Kim. So glad to hear this from you since you were there too! It’s a little trip down memory lane for some great lessons. I’ll hopefully write one about the animal experiences more specifically at some point. By all means, share away!